A DIY Chiffon Maxi Circle Skirt Sewing Tutorial
Every girl pretends she is a princess at some time in her life. Twirling around in a full-length gown and pretending you are royalty can be a lot of fun, but this dream usually wears off as we get older. With all the new live action princess films that have been coming out in the last few years, however, the desire to dress like a princess has come back in full force! Belle from Beauty and the Beast has one of the most quintessential princess dresses of them all. A full yellow skirt with an off the shoulder top detail on the top, it’s also one that can be totally modernized into a 2017 appropriate outfit.
Instead of going with a full yellow gown which wouldn’t get as much wear, a simple white top paired with a voluminous, sunflower maxi skirt is the way to go! This skirt is dramatic and fun to wear, and the perfect transitional piece to take you from Spring to Summer as the weather starts to warm up. It is also the best for dancing and would fit right in at an upcoming wedding or on a date night.
Realistically, the silhouette of this skirt is very simple. It is a full circle skirt with two layers of fabric that is sewn to a piece of thick elastic to create ruching and allow you to not have to sew in any zippers or closures. The only difficult part about it is that you are working with a large amount of chiffon which can be tricky if you don’t have the right tools.
To make this project as simple as possible, I recommend a few things:
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Only cut the chiffon one layer at a time. Though it might seem quicker to layer the fabric, it tends to slip and you will not get even pieces like you think you might.
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Invest a few dollars in buying a rolled hem presser foot. I have shown a few photos below using a rolled hem presser foot to complete the hem on this skirt and it saved me from such a headache trying to fold over the entire hem by hand. It also makes the perfect tiny edge so that your skirt flutters as you move!
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Use a brand new, thin needle to help pierce through the delicate fabric.
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Practice sewing on scraps of fabric before you start sewing the skirt to make sure you have your tension settings set correctly. This is also key to mastering your rolled hem presser foot.
Now that you know all the tricks, let’s get started!
Supplies:
- 13 yards of Sunflower Chiffon
- A piece of 1-2” elastic as long as your waist
- Thread to match the fabric
- Sewing Machine with normal pressure foot and rolled hem presser foot
- Scissors
- Pencil
- Measuring Tape
- Pins
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Medium
LET'S GET STARED!
For Steps 1 through 3, follow along with the image above.
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Start by measuring from your waist to the floor. Add 2-3” to this measurement to get the length of your skirt. Then measure around your waist and divide this number by 4. This will be the radius on the waist portion of the skirt. Use these measurements to cut out four semi-circles from your fabric as shown in the instructions. To measure the semi-circles, hold the end of your measuring tape at the center of the fabric and mark with a pencil the distance you measured for the length all the way around. Then, do the same thing for the waist. Cut out the four semi circles and the small semi-circle for your waist.
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To create the skirt pieces, lay one semi-circle on top of another and pin the straight edges together. Sew along these edges. Repeat on the other two semi-circles.
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Now you will need to measure your elastic waistband. Start by wrapping the elastic around your waist. Pull it until it is pretty tight. I ended up cutting mine much shorter than the size of my waist since the elastic was very stretchy and it needed to be tighter to hold up so much fabric. Once you have it cut to size, sew the two ends together.
4. To attach the elastic to the skirt, pin the elastic to the skirt on the backside in four places around the waist. It will appear that there is a lot of fabric in between each section of short elastic. Place more pins in between the four sections if desired.
5. To sew the elastic on to the skirt, start at one of your pins and pull the elastic until it matches the length of the section of fabric. Sew along the elastic while it is still stretched out to connect it to the skirt. You will notice that as the elastic stretches back to its normal shape, it will have ruched the skirt fabric. Continue this around the entire waistband.
6. To finish the waistband, fold the elastic over twice to the inside of the fabric and sew two straight stitches through the top and bottom of the waistband to secure it and hide any frayed edges.
7. The last step to finish the skirt is to hem the bottom of the skirt with your rolled hem presser foot. To use the rolled hem presser foot, start by folding over the edge of the fabric twice into a very small hem. Place this section underneath the presser foot where the needle is. Then, fold the fabric at the front of the presser foot into the little rolled section so that it is just overlapping the indented part of the foot as shown below. You should then be able to start sewing along the rolled section and the presser foot will continue rolling the fabric as you go. Make sure to keep rotating the fabric slightly as you move along the curved hem to make sure you still have the fabric just overlapping in the front at the indented part of the presser foot.
NOTE: As I described in the tips above, it is important to practice using this presser foot before completing the hem since it is a pain to pull out seams from chiffon.
Here is how the hem should look once you are finished:
Congratulations you are done! Here's the finished skirt in action
19 comments
Haqo
I get it it’s in four quarters. Lol
I get it it’s in four quarters. Lol
Haqo
Waist divided by four, I’m confused. Because if the waist was 40 that would make waist 40÷4=10. Waist 10 inches?
Waist divided by four, I’m confused. Because if the waist was 40 that would make waist 40÷4=10. Waist 10 inches?
Andrea
Thank you for this pattern/tutorial. I am uaing this to make dance skirts for my daughters. They are very difficult to find for older girls and in long enough lengths to their liking. I had some confusing moments as I am more of a beginner at sewing. The rolled hem presser foot is amazing to use once I figured out how to do it correctly! I ended up pressing my hem at 1/8inch and then folding and pressing again. This helped tremendously with my hem using that special foot. I would recommend using a stretch stitch like the lightning bolt looking one on your machine for the waist stitches. This allows the elastic to stretch more without breaking the seams open
Thank you for this pattern/tutorial. I am uaing this to make dance skirts for my daughters. They are very difficult to find for older girls and in long enough lengths to their liking. I had some confusing moments as I am more of a beginner at sewing. The rolled hem presser foot is amazing to use once I figured out how to do it correctly! I ended up pressing my hem at 1/8inch and then folding and pressing again. This helped tremendously with my hem using that special foot. I would recommend using a stretch stitch like the lightning bolt looking one on your machine for the waist stitches. This allows the elastic to stretch more without breaking the seams open
Cece
Can I use this pattern to make a shorter skirt? Say, a knee length one?
Can I use this pattern to make a shorter skirt? Say, a knee length one?
Bek
Do you have to do two layers of fabric? And what other types of fabric can I use for this?
Do you have to do two layers of fabric? And what other types of fabric can I use for this?
Melissa
Would this work with poly or cotton voile?
Would this work with poly or cotton voile?
Julie Burr
What if I want to make the back longer than the front…like a train?
What if I want to make the back longer than the front…like a train?
Sharay
HI! I would like to know if I use the same method if Im making a skirt for a 7 year old? When calculating the yardage, I came up with 8 yards… Does this seem correct?
HI! I would like to know if I use the same method if Im making a skirt for a 7 year old? When calculating the yardage, I came up with 8 yards… Does this seem correct?
Ella
I have been wanting to make a long skirt like this for a while for my dance but I have one question. I understand that the fabric has to be 13 yards long but how wide should the fabric be? Would a regular width ( 45") be okay? Or does it depend on how tall I am?
I have been wanting to make a long skirt like this for a while for my dance but I have one question. I understand that the fabric has to be 13 yards long but how wide should the fabric be? Would a regular width ( 45") be okay? Or does it depend on how tall I am?
FWD Fabric Specialist
@Jenn: Yes Jenn, fraying fabric is definitely something that must be addressed while using chiffon. I added a zigzag stitch next to my straight stitch to help avoid any holes, but you are right that a French seam would be best (just a little more time consuming!).
@Jenn: Yes Jenn, fraying fabric is definitely something that must be addressed while using chiffon. I added a zigzag stitch next to my straight stitch to help avoid any holes, but you are right that a French seam would be best (just a little more time consuming!).
FWD Fabric Specialist
@Alexr: The amount of yardage comes from the length of the skirt and your waist measurement. To find out how much yardage you need, measure the length you want your skirt to be and add 3" to that for the waistband and hemming. Then, measure your waist and divide that by 4. Add these two amounts together and multiply by 8 to get the full length of fabric needed. Like Andrea said, I made this skirt from two semi circles and then added a second layer as lining, so a total of 4 semicircles.
@Alexr: The amount of yardage comes from the length of the skirt and your waist measurement. To find out how much yardage you need, measure the length you want your skirt to be and add 3" to that for the waistband and hemming. Then, measure your waist and divide that by 4. Add these two amounts together and multiply by 8 to get the full length of fabric needed. Like Andrea said, I made this skirt from two semi circles and then added a second layer as lining, so a total of 4 semicircles.
FWD Fabric Specialist
@Nanik: Thanks!
@Nanik: Thanks!
FWD Fabric Specialist
@Catherine Edmends: You will only need 13 yards if you want your skirt as long as mine! Check out the comment below on Alexr’s post for the calculations on yardage needed.
@Catherine Edmends: You will only need 13 yards if you want your skirt as long as mine! Check out the comment below on Alexr’s post for the calculations on yardage needed.
FWD Fabric Specialist
@Andrea Thorpe: Yes, you are right!
@Andrea Thorpe: Yes, you are right!
Andrea Thorpe
For the yardage question : I make chiffon skirts for belly dance, which are worn much lower on the hip, I buy 2.5 yards per each half circle and I use 3 half circles per skirt. This tutorial is very good and the fact that this skirt is worn much higher on the body it makes since to buy 13 yards. You would need that extra fabric depending on the length of your skirt, plus fabric for a waistband, this pattern has you cutting out 4 half circles for the main skirt plus a lining…
For the yardage question : I make chiffon skirts for belly dance, which are worn much lower on the hip, I buy 2.5 yards per each half circle and I use 3 half circles per skirt. This tutorial is very good and the fact that this skirt is worn much higher on the body it makes since to buy 13 yards. You would need that extra fabric depending on the length of your skirt, plus fabric for a waistband, this pattern has you cutting out 4 half circles for the main skirt plus a lining…
Catherine Edmends
i’d say more like 8 yards/metres
i’d say more like 8 yards/metres
Nanik
I love it!
I love it!
AlexR
Can you please explain why this tutorial is recommending 13 yards of chiffon?
Can you please explain why this tutorial is recommending 13 yards of chiffon?
Jenn
For chiffon, seams (such as the side seams in this) should be finished with at least a french seam to avoid the fabric pulling and getting holes in your seams.
For chiffon, seams (such as the side seams in this) should be finished with at least a french seam to avoid the fabric pulling and getting holes in your seams.