A DIY Khaki Draped Peacoat Sewing Tutorial

Nothing makes it feel like Fall quite like the air turning crisp and cold, and getting a new coat! One style that has been really making the rounds in the last couple of years is a draped wrap coat. From Olivia Pope to the fashion bloggers of NYC, the coat has made an appearance in various shades of blush, grey, and brown. Buying one in the stores can cost you hundreds, if not thousands, but making one only costs about $30!

This particular pattern is as simple as it gets for a coat since it has no lining, button holes, or zippers. The base pattern used to create the final design was the Butterick Lisette B6244, though many additions and changes were made. The pattern lists sizing information that suggests making a size that will be far larger than necessary. The sleeves are about right, but the body has far too much fabric. This version also includes added pockets, a belt, and an altered, shortened length on the front drape.

Though not 100% necessary, it is recommended to try a flat fell seam on most of the seams of this coat since it is not lined! You can create a flat fell seam by sewing a straight stitch 5/8” from the edge of the fabric. Then, cut one side of the seam to 1/4" wide and leave the other at 5/8”. Wrap the 5/8” side around the 1/4" side and then fold it down and sew into place. This will give a tailored look to the final coat and at the very least will strengthen the seams and keep them from fraying.

Pick one of the beautiful brushed polyester wool coatings from Fabric Wholesale Direct’s site and get started!

SUPPLIES:

• 2.5 yards of Khaki Brushed Polyester Wool Coating
• 0.25 yards of Cotton Fabric for Pockets
• Thread to match fabric
• Measuring Tape
• Fabric Scissors
• Pins
• Sewing Machine

Difficulty: Medium

LET'S GET STARTED!

Start by folding your fabric in half along the width of the fabric so the entire piece is about 30” wide by 2.5 yards long. You will want to create a BACK piece, two FRONT pieces, two SLEEVES, and a BELT as shown in the image above. Also cut out the POCKET pieces from your cotton fabric.

Take both of your FRONT pieces and find the slit cut at the top of the pieces. Fold the fabric so that you have a 0.5” wide dart that is about 9” long. Pin them on both FRONT pieces and sew.

Place both FRONT pieces together with the sides with the darts facing out, and sew them together at the top collar 5/8” from the edge of the fabric (every time you sew two pieces together, assume a 5/8” distance from the edge of the fabric unless noted otherwise).

Here is where you will want to at least create one flat fell seam since the collar of the jacket will show when you wear it. Complete a flat fell seam by sewing a straight stitch 5/8” from the edge of the fabric. Then, cut one side of the seam to 1/4" wide and leave the other at 5/8”. Wrap the 5/8” side around the 1/4" side and then fold it down and sew into place.

Line up the top shoulders of the BACK piece with the 3 edges at the collar of the FRONT pieces. You will want the backside of the darts and the flat fell seam to be on the outside. Pin the top three edges together so that you have the shoulders in line at the front and the neck of the BACK lined up with the collar of the FRONT. Sew along this line 5/8” from the edge of the fabric. Again, complete a flat fell seam if desired folding the fabric from the BACK piece over the fabric from the FRONT pieces so that the flat fell seam folded over toward the back of the collar.

Measure 12” down from the bottom of the arm holes on the FRONT and BACK pieces and lay down your POCKET pieces so they are flush with the edge of the fabric with the right sides of the fabric touching as shown. Sew along the straight edges ¼” from the edge of the fabric.

Flip the coat inside out and pull the pockets out so that they again have the right sides of the fabric touching. Line up the sides of the coat and the pocket pieces and pin together. Sew 5/8” from the edge of the fabric all the way down the sides of the coat and around the pockets. Create an optional flat fell seam along the sides of the coat, and complete a zig-zag stitch along the pocket.

Take both ARM pieces and sew a wide stitch along the curved edge of the sleeve about 5/8” from the edge of the fabric, but do not back stitch. This will be used to adjust the ease of the shoulder. Fold the ARM pieces over so that the straight edges touch for each arm. Sew along this edge 5/8” from the edge of the fabric. Complete and optional flat fell seam. This is a little tricky on the arms – make sure not to sew through the entire arm!

Turn the ARMs right side out and slot them into the arm holes of the jacket. Line up the bottom seams first and then start to pin the ARMs to the jacket. Adjust the sleeve using the wide stitch that you sewed in step 7 by pulling on the loose strings and cinching up the shoulders. Sew along the sleeves about 5/8” from the edge of the fabric and finish with a zig-zag stitch.

Finish the jacket by hemming the sleeves, collar, and bottom of the jacket with a rolled hem. Make sure that you turn the hem under at the collar and then switch directions when you reach the bottom hem so that it does not show at the bottom.

If you wish to create a belt, take your BELT piece and fold it in half so that it is a long, skinny piece. Sew all the way along the long end ¼” from the edge. Flip the belt right-side out, and fold the ends in. Sew all along the ends to close them up and press the belt flat with an iron.

HERE'S HOW IT LOOKS WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED!